Concrete Slabs in Bowling Green, KY

Concrete slabs are the flat pads that sheds, detached garages, workshops, carports, hot tubs, generators and HVAC units sit on. Unlike a patio, a slab is built around a load. A garden shed and a two-car garage full of vehicles need very different thickness, edges and reinforcement. On Bowling Green's clay soil, the base and the drainage around the slab decide whether it stays level.

Common slab projects

• Shed pads, usually a little larger than the shed so the walls sit fully on concrete.
• Detached garage and shop slabs, with thickened edges for walls and heavier sections where vehicles or equipment park.
• Carport and RV pads, built thicker for heavy wheels.
• Hot tub pads, sized and reinforced for a filled tub.
• Equipment pads for HVAC units, generators and trash bins.
• Basement and crawlspace floors, poured over a vapor barrier.

Thickness and reinforcement

HomeGuide notes that shed slabs are often about 4 inches thick and two-car garage floors 4 to 6 inches with reinforcement. We size the slab to the load. A garage or shop slab usually gets thickened edges under the walls and rebar or wire mesh across the slab. If anchor bolts are needed for a building, we set them in the fresh concrete where the builder needs them.

Base, vapor barrier and drainage

Slabs in Bowling Green sit on clay over limestone. The city geologist told WKU Public Radio that wet clay gets heavier and more plastic and breaks more easily. That is why we dig to firm ground, compact a crushed stone base and grade the area so water flows away from the slab. For any slab under a building that will be enclosed and stored in, a vapor barrier under the concrete helps keep ground moisture from coming up through the floor. If the slab sits in a low spot where water collects after storms, we talk about raising it or adding drainage before we pour.

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Level, square and ready to build on

A building slab has to be square and level so walls go up straight. We set forms to string lines and check the diagonals before the pour. For a shed or garage kit, give us the manufacturer's footprint and any foundation details so the slab matches. For a slab that will become a heated shop or living space, ask your builder about insulation and plumbing before we pour, because those go in first.

Signs an old slab needs replacing

• A shed or building that leans or has doors that no longer close
• Cracks with one side higher than the other
• Water coming up through or pooling on the slab
• Crumbling edges where the slab was too thin

Some of these can be fixed with leveling or repair, covered on our Concrete Repair page. If the slab is broken through or too thin for its load, replacement is the fix.

Curing before the build

Concrete needs time before heavy loads go on it. A shed can often be set within a week, while framing a garage or setting heavy equipment usually waits longer. We give you timing for your mix and the season.